Peptides have become one of the most talked-about ingredients in modern skincare — and for good reason. These small molecules play an important role in supporting hydration, elasticity, and the overall appearance of the skin.
But peptides are not a new discovery. In fact, humans have been using protein-rich ingredients in beauty rituals for centuries.
Understanding how proteins and peptides work helps explain why these ingredients continue to be such powerful allies in skincare today.
A Brief History of Proteins in Beauty Rituals
Long before cosmetic laboratories existed, people were already experimenting with protein-rich ingredients to care for their skin.
One of the most well-known historical examples is Cleopatra, who was said to bathe in donkey milk. Milk contains proteins, amino acids, and peptides that help soften and condition the skin, which may explain why it became associated with luxurious beauty treatments.
Across the world in Japan, women on the island of Hokkaido traditionally used soy flour in facial masks. Soy is naturally rich in proteins and amino acids that can help support skin hydration and softness.
While these rituals were based on tradition rather than modern science, they reveal an intuitive understanding: ingredients rich in proteins and amino acids can support healthy-looking skin.
Today, cosmetic science has confirmed that many of these effects come from proteins and peptides, which are now widely used in modern skincare formulations.
Benefits of Peptides for Skin
Peptides are valued for their ability to support the skin’s hydration, structure, resilience, and overall appearance. Depending on the type of peptide used in a formulation, they may help encourage processes linked to collagen production, improve skin texture, and support the skin’s natural renewal cycle.
In skincare products, peptides are commonly associated with benefits such as:
- Helping soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
- Supporting elasticity and firmness
- Improving skin hydration and moisture retention
- Promoting smoother texture and a more balanced skin appearance
- Protecting the skin from environmental stress and free-radical damage
Because of these properties, peptides are frequently included in formulations designed for dry, mature, or environmentally stressed skin.
What Are Peptides?
To understand peptides, it helps to first understand proteins.
Proteins are large molecules made from chains of amino acids. Two of the most important proteins in skin are collagen and elastin, which provide structure and elasticity.
Peptides are simply short chains of amino acids, meaning they are smaller fragments of proteins.
You can think of peptides as biological messengers.
Rather than replacing collagen directly, many peptides interact with the skin in ways that help signal repair and support processes. Over time, this can contribute to skin that appears smoother, firmer, and more resilient.
Peptides are naturally present in living organisms, including the human body, and often contain around 20 amino acids. They perform many biological roles, from regulating hormones to influencing immune responses. Some peptides help soothe the skin, while others improve the appearance of wrinkles and loss of firmness. (Formula Botanica)
In skincare science, peptides are often grouped according to their function.
Signal Peptides
Signal peptides act as messengers that, for instance can stimulate fibroblasts — the cells responsible for producing collagen.
As collagen naturally breaks down over time, signal peptides can help activate pathways involved in collagen or elastin production, either encouraging their production, or inhibiting their breaking down. This may contribute to firmer-looking, smoother skin.
Carrier Peptides
Carrier peptides help deliver trace elements, such as copper, into the skin.
Copper plays an important role in enzymatic processes involved in wound healing and collagen formation. By delivering these minerals, carrier peptides can support the skin’s natural repair mechanisms.
Neurotransmitter-Inhibiting Peptides
Some peptides influence the release of neurotransmitters that control muscle contraction.
In cosmetic formulations, these peptides may have an effect similar to Botox, helping to soften the appearance of expression lines by reducing repetitive facial muscle activity.
Skin Conditioning Hydrolyzed Proteins
While the previous three types of peptides need a very small molecular weight to reach the depth where they can be effective, there are other peptides and proteins that are effective on the surface of the skin. Peptide-rich hydrolyzed proteins remain on the surface of the skin and function to protect, soothe, moisturize and condition the skin.
Synthetic Peptides in Skincare
Many peptides used in conventional cosmetics are synthetically produced in laboratories.
Synthetic peptides are typically created by building amino acid chains or by breaking larger proteins into smaller fragments. These molecules are designed to mimic the structure and activity of naturally occurring peptides.
Brands often use synthetic peptides because they offer:
- Consistent production quality
- Precise molecular design and small molecular size
- Reliable stability in formulations
Two commonly used synthetic peptides are palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, which are often combined in anti-aging formulations to support collagen and elastin.
Another well-known example is acetyl hexapeptide-8, developed to target expression lines by influencing muscle contractions.
The Dirty Secret of How Many Synthetic Peptides are Produced
Many synthetic peptides are produced using solid-phase peptide synthesis, a method that often relies on reagents such as trifluoroacetic acid (TFA), which belongs to the PFAS family of so-called “forever chemicals.” Although these substances are primarily used during manufacturing, concerns remain about their environmental persistence and the possibility of trace residues. At the same time, peptide production can involve large amounts of solvents and chemical waste, raising questions about sustainability.
With PFAS restrictions tightening in Europe and broader regulatory changes expected around 2026, the cosmetics industry is increasingly exploring greener chemistry and PFAS-free peptide manufacturing methods. These challenges are helping drive a shift in the industry toward alternative peptide production methods, including biotechnology, fermentation, and other green chemistry approaches designed to reduce chemical waste and environmental impact.
While many peptides used in skincare are produced through synthetic laboratory processes, advances in botanical science are now revealing naturally occurring peptides that can offer similar skin-supporting properties.
Natural Peptides in Skincare
Natural peptides are typically derived from plants, fermentation processes, or hydrolysed proteins.
Protein Hydrolysis
One of the most common methods used to obtain natural peptides is hydrolysis.
In this process, large protein molecules are broken down into smaller fragments by cleaving peptide bonds using water and catalysts. The result is water-soluble peptides that are easier to incorporate into cosmetic formulations.
Hydrolysed proteins are widely used in skincare because they help improve hydration, softness, and elasticity while forming a light protective film on the skin’s surface (Scibisz et al., 2008).
Examples of Natural Peptides
Many plant-derived ingredients used in skincare are actually peptide-rich hydrolysed proteins. While they do not replicate the exact structure of animal collagen, they still provide hydrating and conditioning benefits.
Common examples include:
-
Hydrolysed pea protein
- Hydrolysed wheat protein
- Hydrolysed quinoa protein
- Hydrolysed lupin protein
- Hydrolysed silk protein
These ingredients help maintain moisture balance and support the overall condition of the skin and hair.
Hexapeptide-11 is an example of a natural signaling peptide produced by fermentation biotechnology. Derived from the single celled organism Saccharomyces cerevisiae (also known as "Brewer's Yeast"), Hexapeptide-11 is known to promote collagen and elastin production in addition to having anti-irritant and wound-healing properties. (Formula Botanica)
Botanical Peptides in Skincare: The Example of Prince Ginseng
Recent advances in botanical science have introduced a new generation of plant-derived peptides for skincare, including heterophyllin B, a natural cyclic peptide extracted from Prince Ginseng (Pseudostellaria heterophylla). This gentle adaptogenic herb has been used for centuries in traditional herbal practices to help the body respond to stress.
Research on heterophyllin B suggests that formulations containing 1% of this peptide produced visible smoothing effects comparable to those observed with the most common dosage of retinol (0.3%) in comparative testing, while generally showing better skin tolerance. These findings highlight the potential of certain cyclic peptides as gentler alternatives for supporting smoother-looking skin.
One reason this ingredient has attracted attention is its cyclic peptide structure. Most peptides used in skincare are linear, meaning they have a beginning and an end. Cyclic peptides form a closed loop, which can increase molecular stability and help the peptide remain intact longer in cosmetic formulations.
In addition, this botanical peptide is obtained through a gentle fractionation process using green chemistry principles, helping isolate the naturally occurring compound from the plant without the solvent-intensive synthetic methods often used to manufacture conventional peptides.
For this reason, it has begun appearing in modern botanical skincare formulations. For example, it is featured in our Multi-Tasking Mist Elixir, where it helps improve skin luminosity and smoothness while remaining exceptionally gentle on the skin.
How to Use Peptides in Your Skincare Routine
Peptides are generally easy to incorporate into a skincare routine and are compatible with many other ingredients.
A simple routine might look like this:
- Cleanse with a gentle cleanser
- Apply a mist or essence (optional)
- Apply a peptide serum or mist
- Follow with a moisturizer
- Apply SPF in the morning
Many people use peptides once or twice daily.
If your skin is sensitive, you may wish to begin with once-daily use and gradually increase frequency.
How Long Do Peptides Take to Work?
Peptides typically work gradually rather than producing overnight changes.
A realistic timeline may look like:
1–2 weeks: improved hydration and skin comfort
4–8 weeks: smoother texture and more balanced appearance
8–12 weeks: more noticeable improvements in firmness and overall skin resilience
The most common change people notice is not dramatic transformation, but steadier, more balanced skin over time.
Are Peptides Good for Sensitive Skin?
Peptides are often considered suitable for sensitive skin because they generally support the skin rather than aggressively exfoliating or stimulating it.
However, individual formulations always matter more than the ingredient category itself.
If you have sensitive or reactive skin, consider these precautions:
- Patch test new products first
- Avoid introducing multiple new actives at once
- Focus on barrier-supporting ingredients such as hydration, lipids, and daily SPF
Frequently Asked Questions
Are peptides better than retinol?
It depends on your skin goals.
Retinoids can deliver powerful results but may irritate sensitive skin. Peptides are often chosen as a gentler, long-term supportive ingredient.
Can peptides be used with vitamin C or niacinamide?
In many routines, yes. Peptides often pair well with barrier-friendly ingredients like niacinamide and hydrating humectants.
If your skin is reactive, introduce combinations slowly.
Bibliography
Secchi, G. (2008). Role of protein in cosmetics. Clinics in Dermatology, 26(4), 321–325.
Husein el Hadmed, H., & Castillo, R. F. (2016). Cosmeceuticals: peptides, proteins, and growth factors. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 15, 514–519.
Scibisz, M., Arct, J., & Pytkowska, K. (2008). Hydrolysed proteins in cosmetic production, part II. SOFW Journal Polish Edition.
Simionato, A. V., Carrilho, E., & Tavares, M. F. (2011). Characterization of protein hydrolysates of cosmetic use by CE-MS. Journal of Separation Science, 34(8), 947–956. (Link: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21374808/)
Formula Botanica. The Formulator’s Guide to Natural Peptides
Grabenhofer, R. (2025). Croda Beauty highlights PFAS-free peptides, commits to complete portfolio transition by 2026. Cosmetics & Toiletries.
Pawlas, J., Qvist, T., & Haugaard-Kedström, L. M. (2025). Advancing sustainable synthesis of cyclic peptides by integrating aqueous solid-phase peptide synthesis with PFAS-free resin cleavage. Journal of Organic Chemistry.
European Chemicals Agency (ECHA). (2024). Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS): regulatory developments in the European Union.
